Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Royal Grill is a Hidden Treasure


Vegetable Ghallaba


Crushed Lentil Soup
Despite Mediterranean/ Middle Eastern cuisine being one of my favorites, I had other motivation for eating at Royal Grill.  I was similarly unmoved by it being a locally-owned “mom & pop” operation, although I like to support local businesses. The reason I decided to dine at this restaurant was that I wanted to try it before it goes out of business.

Baba Ghannoush and Pita
Perhaps that sounds pessimistic to you but it is located in a bad spot.The parking lot can only be entered and exited from one direction.  It is tucked behind a car rental business at a hectic intersection. In real estate terms, its location is less than prime. Moreover, this restaurant has been preceded by a small national fast-food chain, a chicken ‘n’ waffles joint, and a diner. None of these restaurants have survived. So, if the past predicts the future, I had reasonable expectation that Royal Grill would eventually be defunct, as well. After patronizing the restaurant multiple times, I am glad the cynic in me made the choice to eat from this delightful restaurant.

At first glance, upon entry, one might feel uncertainty facing the stock photography menu board which serves as crown molding for the restaurant’s hub. Patrons are greeted with pictures with misspelled captions of Falafel or Shawarma or Tabouleh. Prospects do not appear bright. But an eagerly attentive staff welcomes all customers and leads them to the dining room.
           
Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves
On my first visit, I ordered the Baba Ghannoush as an appetizer. With an intensely smoky flavor, this velvety eggplant dip had a garlicky punch that cut through the smoke. The brightly acidic flavor of lemon juice finished the flavor experience. With the house-made pita, this spread was a winner! On a subsequent visit, I ventured to try the Vegetarian Stuffed Grape Leaves. I was not a fan. Although I found the texture of these leaves to be meltingly tender, I disliked the amount of cinnamon in the dish. It prevented me from tasting anything else in the grape leaves and left me feeling like I had eaten potpourri. Further, I felt that the cold temperature of these tomato sauce- braised grape leaves made the rice stuffing taste pasty. Finally (and, admittedly, this criticism is pure snobbery), the plain yogurt with which the grape leaves were served was thin and decidedly not rich. I would have preferred a creamy, thick lebneh or Greek yogurt.

Lamb Vegetable Soup
I also sampled two of four available soups. Soup-making is clearly an area in which Royal Grill excels. My favorite of the two was the Crushed Lentil Soup. This soup was remarkably light and thin for a bean soup and yet it was incredibly satisfying. It had a savory broth which hinted of cumin. The chunky carrots and onions made this soup into a meal. The other soup I ate was the Lamb and Vegetable Soup. The taste experience was altogether different from the lentil soup but it was almost as delectable. This tomato-based soup appealed to me because the tomato broth did not overpower the other ingredients with the cloying thickness that tomato soups often possess. The lamb shined through as the star ingredient in this vegetable soup—its flavor was infused into every drop of the aromatic broth. This soup comprised carrots, peas, corn and onions as the vegetable components. Every spoonful was more delicious than the last.
           
Shish Kafta
The entrees I tried were tasty in different ways. Unlike in the aforementioned grape leaves, cinnamon worked to enhance the meaty flavor of the Shish Kafta. This kebab of seasoned ground lamb had a crusty exterior from grilling. Served with a fresh relish of tomatoes, parsley, and onions all flavored with sumac, these skewers were genius when wrapped in a triangle of pita. The truly surprising entrée choice was the Vegetable Ghallaba. This plate was a medley of sautéed vegetables—carrots, mushrooms, onions and peppers—in a zesty, garlicky tomato sauce. It was served with a toasted almond rice pilaf that added the perfect amount of crunch that contrasted with the tender-crisp vegetables. This dish may have been perfection. However, it lost points because it was described in the menu as having potatoes but none were on the plated dish. It did not need the potatoes, it turned out, but it is disappointing to receive a dish that is prepared in a way other than how it was advertised.
           
Chicken Shawarma Wrap
Being a sandwich lover, it was imperative that I enjoy selections from the sandwich board. Served wrapped in griddled pita that had a lovely cracker-like snap, the Falafel and Chicken Shawarma were amazing. Royal Grill’s falafels were a mixture of chick peas, fava beans, garlic, herbs and spices fried to crispy perfection. Zippy tahini sauce and a mélange of lettuce, pickles and olives accompanied the falafels in this sandwich. The briny, sharpness of pickles also accented the Chicken Shawarma wrap. This marinated and vertical spit-roasted boneless chicken was shaved off the spit and collected in a warm pita slathered with a creamy, garlic spread that lacked the punch of raw garlic but was not as stickily sweet as roasted garlic.
           
Finally, I must adulate the house-made pita at Royal Grill.Unlike commercially prepared pita that one might find in the supermarket, homemade pita is thin and not doughy at all. In this respect, Royal Grill’s pita did not disappoint. Their pita was chewy, light and heavenly when grilled crisp. The delectable virtues of this bread were highlighted in their Fattoush Feta. It was a mixed salad of romaine lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions, and crisp, toasted pita. The salad was tossed in a tangy vinaigrette and generously showered with a salty, creamy flourish of crumbled feta cheese.
           
Falafel Wrap
Fattoush Feta
Overall, I have to say that dining at Royal Grill will be an enjoyable dining experience for you. What the restaurant lacks in refinement, it makes up for with a homey comfort that translates to the food. I can forgive inconsistently misspelled menus and an awkward floor plan because the food is largely amazing. And after all, I’m just here for the food.